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Before you click: To begin, check your camera gear. Dennis Small, an avid bird
photographer at Wildwood Park, said one of the biggest mistakes beginners make
is not knowing enough about their camera. "It wouldn't hurt to take a
beginner class, and if nothing else, learn what shutter speed, F stops, and ISO
mean before you go a field," Small said. "I tell people all the time
if they want a lesson, meet me on the trail. Without those I met along the
trails who helped me when I started, I would still be struggling."
Professionals suggest using an SLR camera rather than a point-and- shoot. SLRs,
which have an interchangeable lens, have the best zoom features for
photographing animals. And the best lenses for this type of photography is in
the 200 to 300-mm range. Small said he recommends that whatever camera someone
chooses, make sure it's digital. "You can practice all you want without
developing costs," Small said. Tripods are also beneficial so you can
pre-focus the camera at the area where you want the shot and just wait for the
birds to come for a steady and clear shot. Before you click make sure the eye of
the bird is in focus. "It doesn't matter if the feathers are blurry, just
keep the eye sharp," he said. Staying steady and having a fast-frame camera
is the key to sharp images. Also, know where the sun is located in the sky.
Putting the sun at your back will light up the bird's features. "Once your
shadow is shorter than you are tall, it's time to come in," McElroy said.
In the summer, it's best to put the camera away around 9 a.m., but the light
stays good until about noon during winter months. Smith added that late after-
noon all year also provides ,good light for the birds, and that birds aren't
typically active on windy days, so viewers should be keep that in mind when
heading out. But don't be scared off from shooting on a rainy day, Small noted.
"Taking [photos] for some is a fair weather game, however rain and snow
doesn't stop me because the weather can add so much to the end photo."
YOUR BEST SHOT LENSES: A traditional lens is curved so the center of the image is sharp and the edges are slightly fuzzy. Flat-field macro lenses provide an image that is sharp from edge to edge. Macro lenses magnify the subject. Close-up photography means getting close to the subject and using your zoom. In close- up, the subject fills the frame. FILTERS: When using a filter for your lens, look for one that is multicoated. Mono-coated filters reflect a slight tint, which is harder to see. Coatings also help prevent lens flair. MEGAPIXELS: Bigger is not always better. What is important when choosing a camera is the sensor, not more megapixels. A good sensor in a camera will allow you to capture a wider contrast range and more accurate color. ISO: Refers to your film speed. When you're photographing outside in bright light, a lower ISO, such as 100 or 200, is best. Cloudy days require a higher ISO, usually between 400 and 800. Night photography needs an ISO of around 1600 and can be auto or a manual setting on your digital camera. Lower ISO means less graininess but slower shutter speeds. DEPTH OF FIELD: This is the combination of focal length, aperture and distance from the subject. The aperture controls how much light enters the lens. The smaller your aperture, such as F l.8, F2.0, the narrower the depth of field. The larger your aperture, such as F ll, F 16, the wider the depth of field. The smaller the lens and the more you focus it, the sharper your background image will be. MORE PHOTOGRAPHY ADVICE IS AVAILABLE FROM PATRIOT-NEWS PHOTOGRAPHERS ONLINE: WWW.PENNLIVE.COM/AMATETEUR-PHOTOGRAPHY/EXPERT-ADVICE. |